Mirror 849 Restoration - Plea #2

  • Ron Elliot
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03 Jan 2009 19:16 #20428 by Ron Elliot
Mirror 849 Restoration - Plea #2 was created by Ron Elliot
I made an earlier post about my restoration of Mirror 849, and this is the second in what I suspect will be a long succession of pleas for help!

I began the restoration back in October 2008. I have removed all the fittings and taken her back to the wood. Having first enjoyed the enthusiastic support of The Boy he has since disappeared back to his X-Box muttering something about 'the dullest, most tedious thing he has ever done'. Obviously never had to prepare a 2 year business plan and sales strategy for his boss.

I have discovered some rot in the hull panels at either end of the dagger board case, each hole being about the size of a large satsuma (OK I'm staring at our christmas fruit bowl as I write). I have cut out all the rotten ply and I need to know how best to repair it - my preferred route is to fill up the holes with tape and epoxy filler - or should I put in some replacement ply? My worry about putting in replacement ply is that it is so close to the dagger board case that I suspect movement of the case would eventually work it loose.

What do you think? I would very much appreciate your suggestions. If it helps I have nerded a website about the restoration and have included some close-up pix of the holes... just go to http://www.mirror849.piczo.com/?cr=6 .

Hope you can help!

Many thanks and happy new year to everybody,

Ron

Whisper 849

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03 Jan 2009 21:33 #16407 by Peter Robinson
Hi,
I would suggest straightening the holes so that you can more easily fit some replacement bits of ply into them.

use epoxy resin with lots of filler in it.

ensure all the new and old wood is covered in epoxy before you put it in place.

You can hold it in place with staples or even masking tape while it cures.

The joints will end up stronger than the original wood!

To stop messing up the slot in centreboard case. I would suggest that you stick the centre board, or similar piece of wood into the case. Ensure that you have wrapped the centreboard in strong polythene e.g. rubble sack as the epoxy will not stick to it and it will maintain the slot at the original width.

Hope this helps

Regards Peter

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  • Ron Elliot
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07 Jan 2009 22:50 #16418 by Ron Elliot
Replied by Ron Elliot on topic Mirror 849 Restoration - Plea #2
Peter,

Many thanks for the advice. I think I'll wait until the weather warms up significantly before using epoxy, or the thing will never cure!

Cheers,

Ron

Whisper 849

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  • cjyardley
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02 Mar 2009 18:50 #16466 by cjyardley
Replied by cjyardley on topic Mirror 849 Restoration - Plea #2
Ron

When you cut out the areas for the ply chamfer/bevel the edges (wider on the outside of the hull) so that you end up with a scarph join between the patch and the existing hull. You really need to make the bevel about 30mm long at least (its usually recommended to do a scarph at 7 times the thickness of the wood being scarphed but for small areas this can be reduced to about 5- 6). It can be quite difficult to do this so that you end up with an absolutley straight bevel but a really sharp bull nosed plane (the small Stanley one which is about 3" by 1" was excellent for this) will help - you can do it just about with a sharp file sometimes... Do a corresponding bevel on the patch and gradually offer them up and get a tight fit. The neatest joint is made with coliodial silica (dont breath the dust at all - it is mighty hazardous - arguably not dissimilar to asbesdos) microfibres work ok too but micro balloons are generally a bit on the weak side. When complete, encapsulate the whole area in a neat coating of just clear epoxy which will give a reinforcing skin to the joint and the area on either side etc. Best of luck (min temp for epoxy to go off is 15C)

All the best Chris (26459 and 25637)

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