The mainsail sheet starts on a bridle attached to the mainsail sheet attachment points on the aft transom, or a split tail mainsheet is attached to these points. It then goes around a single block near the end of the main boom, through a boom sleeve or constraining loop on the main boom to a block near the centre of the mainsail boom. It then goes to a block mounted adjacent to the centre of the thwart. Purchase is about 1.5:1
Widely regarded as the best system for helms strong enough to cope with the sheet tension resulting from the (reduced) 1.5:1 purchase. It allows the main boom to be brought closer to the centre line with less load on the mainsail leech than with the traditional aft mainsail sheet system. A split tail mainsheet allows the boom to be brought closer to the centre line with less load on the mainsail leech than with the bridle system. The length of the bridle determines how closely this system matches the split tail system. A bridle which is as long as possible without going "block to block" when sailing close hauled will match a split tail mainsheet
There is also a 2007 advise sheet for a slightly different system, but which may help setting up the bridle.
Equipment list
You don't need an enormous ratchet block, it's going on a Mirror, a small dinghy. A 40mm diameter one will be fine, but check it will take your mainsheet (we recommend an 8mm diameter mainsheet). For example, the 40mm Allen Brothers ratchet blocks only take 6mm line, so you just need to check.
I use a Harken HK2608 40mm diameter switchable ratchect block on one of my boats which takes an 8mm line. I've tried auto-ratchets, but in my experience they stop working after a while, so I perfer one with a simple, reliable, manual switch.
If you are not going to have a cleat (see below), then you will need to mount the block on a deck clip/lacing eye or a swivel base.
Please note: Allen Brothers have replaced the 4422 with the 4222. I recommend having one with a spring so the mainsheet block does not "capsize" when there is no tension on the mainsheet. Springs are available separately, and some stand up bases come with springs.
You need to think about exactly how you are going to fix the block. For example the shackle on the Harken 2608 won't fit the Allen 4422 stand up base. To use these two together you would need a "U" adapter like this
Harken make a few different sizes, maybe other companies make them. You need to choose one that works for you.
Optional Equipment list
There are any number of swivelling cleats suitable for the mainsheet on a Mirror. Because this cleat is mounted at thwart level, you only need a "low-profile" one with a short arm, so the cleat is not too high above the base, otherwise you will find it hard to un-cleat in windy weather. I use the Harken HK205 and a small (i.e.40mm diameter) ratchet block on my boats which works well.
The mainsail sheet starts on a bridle attached to the mainsail sheet attachment points on the aft transom, or a split tail mainsheet is attached to these points. It then goes around a single block near the end of the main boom, through a boom sleeve or constraining loop on the main boom to a block near the centre of the mainsail boom. It then goes to a block mounted adjacent to the centre of the thwart. , then back to a second block mounted near the centre of the mainsail boom, then back down to a second block mounted adjacent to the centre of the thwart. Purchase is about 2:1
This system uses 5 blocks which is the maximum number permitted under the rules. I'm not aware of anyone using this on a Mirror, but it is a legal possibility. It's sometimes used on Flying Fifteens (hence the photos). It will have all the advantages of the other split tail systems, allowing the main boom to be brought closer to the centre line with less load on the mainsail leech than with the traditional aft mainsail sheet system, but giving the same purchase as the original system. A split tail mainsheet allows the boom to be brought closer to the centre line with less load on the mainsail leech than with the bridle system. The length of the bridle determines how closely this system matches the split tail system. A bridle which is as long as possible without going "block to block" when sailing close hauled will match a split tail mainsheet. There will be no need for a gybing strop as the falls of the mainsheet can be used to pull the boom directly when gybing.
Equipment list
Optional Equipment list
This system is a variation of the bridle or split tail (swallow tail) with central block , but with more purchase, making it more suited to child helms.
The mainsail sheet starts near the end of the boom, or the becket of a block attached near the end of the boom. It then goes around a single block attahced to a bridle attached to the mainsail sheet attachment points on the aft transom. It then goes around a single block near the end of the main boom, through a boom sleeve or constraining loop on the main boom to a block near the centre of the main boom. It then goes down to a block mounted adjacent to the centre of the thwart. Purchase is about 2.5:1
Widely regarded as the best system for helms not strong enough to cope with the bridle or split tail (swallow tail) with central block system which does not the addition purchase. It allows the main boom to be brought closer to the centre line with less load on the mainsail leech than with the traditional aft mainsail sheet system. The length of the bridle determines how efficiently this system does this. A bridle which is as long as possible without going "block to block" when sailing close hauled is most efficient.
There is also a 2007 advise sheet on setting this system up.
Equipment list
Optional Equipment list
If you want to upgrade your boat from Gunter to Bermuda mast, you will need
A mast
Standing rigging
You need to
Move mast step
May need to re-route spinnaker halyard, spinnaker pole uphaul, spinnaker pole downhaul
May want to replace a wooden boom
May want to replace mainsail
Due to the nature of our class there are a lot of badly equipped boats (usually older boats) within the class that are frankly barely suitable for sailing never mind racing. After four years of coaching within the class it quickly became noticeable to me that a lot of people, particularly children, were getting put off sailing and Mirrors as a result of sailing these badly equipped boats.
This has led me to put together a few pages of simple modifications that you can make to your boats in order to totally change the Mirror Sailing Experience regardless of your sailing genre. All the modifications can be completed for under £165 and with minimal time and effort (many boats will already have some of the modifications).
A common example of non-sailor-friendly controls are boats without jib cleats or boats with jib cleats angled incorrectly resulting in crews having to permanently hold a full load bearing jib sheet. Another example would be a very wobbly rudder/tiller system where the rudder blade wobbles in the stock and the tiller extension joint is wobbly, resulting in the helm having much reduced control of the boat along with much reduced feedback of the boats’ behaviour. Many of our members are sending our children out in boats equipped like the above. No wonder they are not enthusiastic about Mirror sailing – when the crews hands are feel like they are falling off due to badly set up/non-existing jib cleats and they have capsized the boat due to an inadequate rudder control system.
“Yes but £165 is a lot of money!” I agree with you there however, the two above modifications can be completed from less than £10 and about 1 hour of your time. You’ll be amazed how much a difference a “working boat” will make to your / your children’s sailing (editor's note - fittings & ropes can be purchased from a Chandlers).
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
Bailers similar to the one pictured below are not suitable for a Mirror; they are far too small. Mirror sailors should be using hand bailers with a capacity of 4 litres or greater.
For a very basic hull fit out, the Bell Woodworking building instructions from the 1960s may be sufficient. Details are on pages 19 (mast step), 23, 24 & 25.
For a more sophisticated and up to date fit out, read the following articles.
It's also worth checking out some of our example fit outs.
